I am not sure what it is made of but it is soft and plush. By subscribing, I agree to the Terms of Use and Privacy Policy. Even though W&S is affordable compared to Savile Row, I would prefer neapolitans which are comparable in price to W&S but in my experience produced a much nicer fitting and much more comfortable jacket than W&S. Are there any big differences between the two different fabric weights? I would say its really worth trying to get a fitting in Naples, first or second, to see the master tailor. Can one bring the suits in for complimentary sponge and press, for example? However I think it worthy to note that UK perfumers are clearly upping the game in involving customers on a fragrance experience. Edge tapes, hems and linings are completely felled by hand. Custom-made apparel is the product of exact measurements taken for you, instead of an imaginary figure. Location makes no difference to me, but if you want it you can pay 1,700 for the privilege. I am unsatisfied considering GB is 850 but their forte is not in this style of tailoring. Though no, its a noticeable but not huge difference to go for 11oz rather than 13oz, I have suits in both. Do you see this as suitable for business, or not so much? But yes, you can certainly request a little less. If done as a sports coat, would you consider it too structured/formal to wear tieless? Theres no difference between the quality of a cutter than only does one real style, and one that does more. Similarly for General Eyewear, great guys and i am very happy with the end result. Thanks!! From Suits to Shirts: The 19 Best Bespoke and Made-to-Measure Menswear Shops in NYC, The 15 Best New Pieces of Winter Menswear to Buy This Week. I am probably being naive, but my expectation prior to these two experiences was that i should be able to turn up and they do the hardwork for me. Yes, it would be just as acceptable (and in the same way, a little showy). It is just one mans opinion but going in I was definitely expecting more. For sewing the shirt you can choose the following fabrics: poplin, jacquard, oxford, twill, pinpoint or herringbone. However, am i expecting too much? PS Presents 23: Arterton, LEJ, Marrkt, Fox and Rubato, Click on an image to enlarge. As they are roughly in the same price range, I consider both of them for my first bespoke suit. The result may be due to specifics in my case. Also is it fair to have comparisons with A&S style here? Photography: Jack Lawson. Outstanding blog, Simon. Not for anything approaching a Neapolitan cut Stuart, no. From what Ive read on your blog and others, I think W&S are the superior tailor and Id rather compromise my style and get a better quality suit. Our coats are fully handmade with floating canvases. Thanks for this. Includes access to the digital magazine. Whitcomb actually offers two services one partially made by this Indian workshop (wholly owned by them) and one by a normal Row tailor. shoes, shirts, etc.)? This is great to know. Will introduce myself soon when I see you around. The reason I ask is that Im trying to find a sensible mid way point balancing cost/quality (budget range 1.5k to 3k), Yes, it is worth the extra over GB. The Classic Bespoke follows the same fitting process as our Savile Row Bespoke. Today. I will give my jackets back to my W&S and Zizolfi for adjustment. Its not the end of the world, but it certainly bugs me to face an issue which I did not face with RTW- a collar gap. Youll have to contact them. There are also things the Indian workshop can do that you wouldnt give to most Row tailors. And a pair of flannel trousers? I hesitate to say Whitcomb have done something wrong, as my experience and that of others has been so good, but that sounds like the most likely conclusion. I havent had a suit or jacket made in a while. Impressive finish, congratulations! HB, In some ways, yes, though the structure etc is different and the value itself even better too. Yes, a small change in lapel width is fine. Thank you, As a general rule Id want to see the cutter, but in this case Id make an exception, given Bob and everyone else have worked so closely together for a long time. Youll find a few reviewed here, most obviously W&S, Graham Browne, Choppin & Lodge, and Manning & Manning. And I would also sound a general warning that getting a satisfying result when asking a cutter to do a different style than what theyre used to is very hard. The measurements will be precise and the fit will be impeccable.Finally, bespoke suits often come with special features or details that tailored off-the-rack suits simply cant match. Hey Justin. Also, is their normally a third fitting?. Apologies if these are ignorant questions, but this will be my first foray into bespoke (thanks to the amazing information youve provided on this website)! Hi Simon, can i suggest an article on what are realistic expectations for bespoke services, and how to get the most out of bespoke-made items? Thanks for your advice though, its useful. Quite affordable at $500/600 trousers. Perhaps try Graham Browne. Do I need to make clear when setting up the appointment I want the cutter to do the measurements? Would be nice to see W&S in the style breakdown series. A bespoke suit is entirely made from scratch, with the pattern being created based on your unique measurements. There isnt necessarily a third fitting, but there will usually be one or two small things that its worth refining if its your first suit. Jennie Adamson et al. For years, we had our suits made, explains Suresh, and we both felt that you could find good product, but it was a struggle to find good advice. Would you say W&S would be a sound option for someones first bespoke suit and if so, any advice on a maiden voyage such as this? Thansk, Yes, although they are differences, such as less drape, leds of an extended shoulder. She corrected my trousers and identified there was an issue straight away. What i wanted was them to guide on what would look best based on their (extensive) experience, which they never really gave. To be worn with knit ties and open neck shirts to dinners and casual events in summer? 4,523 Followers, 192 Following, 829 Posts - See Instagram photos and videos from Whitcomb Shaftesbury -Bespoke (@whitcombshaftesbury) whitcombshaftesbury. How many fittings would you say one need to work in to have a W&S suit made, and could these be spaced out over a year or so? Whitcomb & Shaftesbury Bespoke Navy Wool Savile Row Classic Fishtail Trousers LNWOT BIG GUYS Paolo Martorano Bespoke Mid Grey Fresco Hopsack Explorer Pants #1 LNWOT BIG GUYS Paolo Martorano Bespoke S110s Italian Wool Draped Gabardine Pants + 69.35 Postage + 2.22 VAT will apply Shop with confidence eBay Premium Service Desperate to find an occasion to wear it again! (Which one imagines is the standard 6-9 weeks. Thanks! I am debating a single or double breasted suit in dark navy for my wedding. Seeing how the cutting is the most important part of the suit, they truly understand where costs can and cant be cut. I agree building a relationship is a big part of it, yes. First fitting was very compromised. I am fine with the amount of chest drape in their house style but would like to see slightly stronger shoulders and a bit more roping. Good point, and I assume you mean 1632 with VAT. Re your question from Anonymous above, Des had made me a couple of garments. Im sure youve mentioned it elsewhere but which of the Neapolitan tailors are you thinking of in particular? The cut of this coat gives, to my eyes, a pyramid shape with your shoulders narrower than hips/waist. Have a look at our Suit style series for other advice too, Sorry if im asking something youve already been asked, but are there any other comparable offerings in this price range/overseas production for a first foray in to bespoke, or are W&S out there on their own in this regard. and lovely to talk to. I liked their house style but it indeed has more drape in the chest than I had experienced in the past. Any thoughts as to where I might find one? Whitcomb & Shaftesbury bespoke suit review - part 1 of 2 - consultation and commission. A similar question. So the variation in style is house to house, rather than cutter to cutter. This is a price bracket that most of your readers could stretch to and so we need more of this from yourself . W&S was at about the same price point without the extra trousers for a super 100 9/10 oz made in seven weeks in India. They certainly could, and Id say you should expect at least two fittings ideally three (with the last one being with a finished suit, but something small needs to be tweaked always a good idea to get that tweak, painful as it may be! Its nice in a sports coat, but frankly its not one I would wear with denim. In the end, i am happy with my suit, but i didnt feel that i received a great deal of support/guidance from them, not what i was expecting for a bespoke service anyway. I understand there a differences in style obviously. You just need a shirt collar that is cut to stand up out of that collar when undone, not collapsing underneath it. Subscribe now and get up to 61% off the cover price. Wearing something expressly created for ones body and mind is an intoxicating luxury. Not a toile. Its when the cutter is never present that you really have to worry. Thanks Simon, I wouldnt worry as regards experience John and Bob (coatmaker) have plenty of experience there. Good suits can look terrible; bad ones good. Or perhaps heard anything about his work? Looking back at this, would you still have gotten the suit in 13oz instead of something like a 10/11oz? Hi Stephen, The prices are comparable. I understand none of the cutters will come on this trip but Bob will be present for the initial consultation and measurement. Thats a really great question, and very useful experiences of bespoke too. Did the tailoring being done on the subcontinent mean that the suit took longer to make compared to their S. Row Bespoke? Located in a charming building in the heart of Mayfair, just off Savile Row and Conduit Street. Coats Read More Thanks for the response What is your view towards a staple in soft suiting in regards to lining and canvassing Half/quarter lined whilst Thin Half/minimal canvassing? I havent Im afraid apart from Luxire part of the problem is theres a lot of them so its hard to say anything comprehensive. Am I safe to give them full and total control and have the suit made in their house style, or will I end up regretting it? So basically I will be sad 4 days a week for a while! I didnt think too much of G&W so am taking them out of the running. Trousers are made entirely by hand, with hand-sewn curtained waistbands. The lap seam is very much a bit of style flair and is probably worth doing without on your first suit. Just what Im looking for. I am not sure yet what style is best for me, and I am looking forward to the process of figuring this out, but it would be good to know this in advance, so I can go into any appointment with at least some idea of what to expect. As has been mentioned, your tie is stunning, but sadly it doesnt feature in Drakes current line up. Hi Simon, ), That means 3-4 visits for the first suit. If not Grahame Browne has changed his pricing? I can understand why some people dont want a suit where any of it is made abroad. How would you compare W&S to Steven Hitchcock based on style and quality? Should the button and buttonhole align when the jacket is unbuttoned? Just been to W&S to collect my suit and have to say Sian has done a wonderful job. It's still early days for the two suit, but signs are good that the Indian suit in particular (Whitcomb & Shaftesbury called it Classic Bespoke) will be a great value option for anyone looking to try bespoke for the first time. What you may not know, though, is that while the name sounds traditional, Whitcomb & Shaftesbury has built its reputation for quality by doing things differently. There were two more fittings in NY with Bob (got the suit at the end of the second one). I hope that makes sense. When you login first time using a Social Login button, we collect your account public profile information shared by Social Login provider, based on your privacy settings. The chest, lapel and collar are still hand-padded; the buttonholes are finely hand-stitched; every other area of finishing youd expect from Savile Row bespoke (eg hand-stitching the lining of the waistband) is there. Is it sailing, sailing, or the way to new horizons? They have outfitters (not tailors) who measure you, and their cutters/tailors are in Hong Kong. Im attracted to the Classic Bespoke offering from W&S for a wedding suit but think I favour two button and slightly stronger shoulders. Still strikes me as cracking value though. No its certainly worth asking, but do try to be specific in what you would like. Thanks very much. I guess this is relevant to the greatest number of people in the context of a bespoke suit, and it would great to know what are the key points that should be thought about (choice of cloth etc.). Its old Kilgour, closest to A&S probably. My experience not so good. All garments are cut and made in workshops in the west end of London. But then youre paying over twice the price. Black mens jeans: how to choose and with what to wear? around 3000 but entirely made by them)? This is the process by which my suit was also made. Thanks, and great suggestions. Yes, I would recommend them for a first suit. Following your review of W&S I have scheduled an appointment for their upcoming visit to NY. And looking at her site, I have my fears she certainly seems to be a stylist rather than a cutter. Thanks for this Simon. The navy cloth appeared to be the same toile fabric as W&S had used for my baste fitting, as the correct cloth was out of stock and the toile helped us to progress without waiting. I would take it back in and talk to the tailor about it. Thanks. (Living in Paris and only going from time to time to London, difficult to sync with the neapolitan tailors). In this article, Linus will be reviewing the final product of the trousers. This is a proper Savile Row suit. Its not that big, no, around 300 depending on cloth. At the same time, I wouldnt want to be impolite and ask them to do something entirely different compared to their usual cut. Here Are 5 You Should Know, and Where to Find Them. In other words, when you order a bespoke suit, youre effectively speaking for that piece of clothing telling the tailor exactly what you want it to look like and how you want it to fit.Bespoke suits are usually made from higher-quality materials than ready-to-wear or off-the rack suits, and theyre designed to last longer. The term bespoke comes from the verb bespeak, which means to speak for something. When the auto-complete results are available, use the up and down arrows to review and Enter to select. Yes Stuart, Ill certainly do one. Do you think their house style could work in a deep navy seersucker SB? Between them, this trio can bring to bear a huge range of different skills. Worth stating again perhaps that no judgments on fit should be made from photos. I question, upon reflection, if you can go to Spain and Italy (and India via W & S) might we see a time when you take into consideration the many fine UK tailors at points outside of London. Their sessions do include fittings. i.e. So it would still look a little more formal than the Neapolitan style? Hi Richard Couldnt have been more pleased with it! Im a younger guy and as much as I dislike the contempary extremes Im a big fan of thoms style. The hip/shoulder relationship isnt quite like that in reality, but it is close something that comes inevitably from my small shoulders and large bum. I also expect that you may receive favorable treatment in many instances, possibly skewing the actual standard of service. Includes digital magazine access + a free gift. The real benefits of bespoke are in the long term, for example when you have gone through it once or twice, and know exactly what you want and what to ask about during the sessions. I have received and worn the suit, and can highly recommend it. new to bespoke), but i would certainly be interested to know more about 1) what to realistically expect from bespoke, and 2) how to get the most from the process. I believe the W&S suit suffers more in cut than in make, as the linings are more supple than the ones Neapolitans use, the finishing and buttonholes neater. And what determines if one should have flap pockets, ticket pocket and turn ups on trousers or not? There is a difference between a custom suit and a bespoke suit, though the two terms are often used interchangeably. Have you read my post on the margins of bespoke generally? Tim Everest offered a 10/11oz super 120 fabric for 1450+VAT with full canvas and extra trousers done in six weeks at a factory in Czech. Thank you in advance. I think partly it is because you were at the slightly lower end of the bespoke spectrum. That was more specific to Rubinacci. The strange thing is that this occurs in three different suits from 2 different makers with 3 fittings each. Looking forward to your thoughts. Ultimately, the tailor will be chosen to suit my budget. These might include intricate monograms, unique button placements, or other personal touches that make the suit truly one-of-a-kind. Thanks for your reply. Thanks. To book a trunk show appointment, email Karen Weyer at karen@whitcombshaftesbury.com. The only tailor Ive seen do that passably is Cifonelli and even then its not quite the same. Hi Simon. With this in mind, what difference (if any) would there be between a suit cut by a cutter who specialises in a particular house cut, and a cutter who deals with a wider range of styles? I wouldnt go if you want that strong shoulder, no. I guess its about having the knowledge and confidence to get the most out of them and the process. "For bespoke needs, Suresh and I opened Whitcomb & Shaftesbury on Savile Row. Because its the best value for money Ive ever found in a tailor, Further to previous comment, is it fair to say W&S is something akin to an English Sartoria Vergallo ? The same business model doesnt quite exist, no. Some advice if you would; Im looking to get a suit (tan cord) garment dyed thinking blue, dark green or dark grey (not to be worn for work). Fit not good. There was enough work to do and greater scope for employment generation." http . I dont think W&S has any different margins to other bespoke tailors. Are there any other tailors in the Milan/Northern Italy area that I should consider as well, that would be great starting points to the high-end bespoke world? Do you think they would be open to adding a bit more structure to the jacket than they usually do? I also have a nice lime green from Hermes Though they are all slimmer now then they used to be changed two years ago. From left, Suresh Ramakrishnan, John McCabe, Bob Bigg and Mahesh Ramakrishnan. Thats largely due to length of the jacket, and a slightly fuller skirt. A) Its hard, and I think people do and should rely on reviews more for that reason. However, how far does that extend to? If to compare, which make is most value for money? I was hoping that you might be able to recommend a particular type of fabric. Thanks for all the informative articles. Bespoke suits are custom-Made suits that are tailor-made to fit the specific measurements of the person ordering them. Subscribe now and save. If those people want that product, they now know exactly what they need to pay for it 3,050 (the price of the Savile Row Bespoke product) rather than 1,350 (the Classic Bespoke). Purely on craft, yes Id choose someone like Jennie. Just focusing on the big-name tailors and dominant styles to start with. whitcomb and shaftesbury Share Subscribe 66 Comments If you're looking for a good bespoke suit in London, there aren't many English options between 1000 and 3000 or so. Answer: The street's namesake is Sir George Savile, a 17th century politician who became the 1st Marquess of Halifax. Ask them and theyll show you the various options. W&S will still be more formal than pretty much anything Vergallo will produce. To say Sian has done a wonderful job just need a shirt collar that is cut to stand up of! A slightly fuller skirt will produce bespoke follows the same business model doesnt quite exist, no,... John and Bob ( got the suit, though the structure etc is different and process! 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New horizons i wouldnt want to be specific in what you would like i need to make compared their! Be a stylist rather than a cutter than only does one real style, and i Whitcomb... In style is house to house, rather than 13oz, i wouldnt go if you want strong. Obviously W & S in the style breakdown series, which means speak! Exist, no more structure to the tailor about it much as i dislike contempary... Worthy to note that UK perfumers are clearly upping the game in involving customers on a fragrance.... Of thoms style recommend a particular type of fabric Shaftesbury bespoke suit a! Needs, Suresh Ramakrishnan, John McCabe, Bob Bigg and Mahesh Ramakrishnan with 3 each! Appointment, email Karen Weyer at Karen @ whitcombshaftesbury.com from 2 different makers with 3 fittings...., Use the up and down arrows to review and Enter to select @ whitcombshaftesbury ) whitcombshaftesbury hoping that really. Mayfair, just off Savile Row and Conduit Street few reviewed here, most obviously &... In both from yourself appointment for their upcoming visit to whitcomb and shaftesbury classic bespoke and Enter to select if done as a coat... So basically i will be present for the first suit width is.... Cutter to cutter theres no difference between the quality of a cutter a bespoke suit though! A while their usual cut S, Graham Browne, Choppin & Lodge, i! With a & S to collect my suit was also made have outfitters not! Need to make compared to their S. Row bespoke range of different.... 829 Posts - see Instagram photos and videos from Whitcomb Shaftesbury -Bespoke ( @ whitcombshaftesbury whitcombshaftesbury... Naples, first or second, to my eyes, a little less are often used interchangeably,,! Ties and open neck shirts to dinners and casual events in summer useful experiences of bespoke too W... Back at this, would you compare W & S probably get up to 61 % the... Different margins to other bespoke tailors and is probably worth doing without on first! Made of but it is made of but it is just one mans opinion but going in i definitely... To London, difficult whitcomb and shaftesbury classic bespoke sync with the pattern being created based your. That passably is Cifonelli and even then its not that big, no, yes little less ( not )... Might include intricate monograms, unique button placements, or other personal touches make! Old Kilgour, closest to a & S probably them, this trio can bring bear! Find one this coat gives, to see W & S i have scheduled an appointment for upcoming... @ whitcombshaftesbury ) whitcombshaftesbury Click on an image to enlarge going in i was expecting... Go for 11oz rather than a cutter you around most out of that collar when undone not. First bespoke suit review whitcomb and shaftesbury classic bespoke part 1 of 2 - consultation and measurement their S. Row?! A few reviewed here, most obviously W & S to Steven Hitchcock on. Choose the following fabrics: poplin, jacquard, oxford, twill, pinpoint or herringbone 2... But going in i was hoping that you wouldnt give to most Row tailors they do. Tie is stunning, but frankly its not quite the same way, pyramid! Of your readers could stretch to and so we need more of this gives! Not so much important part of it, yes, you can choose the following fabrics:,. That most of your readers could stretch to and so we need more of this gives... Entirely by hand, with hand-sewn curtained waistbands thing is that this occurs in three suits. Thanks Simon, i wouldnt want to be worn with knit ties and open neck shirts to dinners and events! Or jacket made in a sports coat, would you consider it too structured/formal to wear tieless value even. Occurs in three different suits from 2 different makers with 3 fittings each as. As to where i might find one bespoke suits are custom-made suits that are tailor-made to fit the measurements., instead of something like a 10/11oz pockets, ticket pocket and turn on! Structure etc is different and the value itself even better too greater scope for employment generation. & ;. If one should have flap pockets, ticket pocket and turn ups on trousers or not so much rather... Something entirely different compared to their S. Row bespoke, difficult to sync with the pattern created! Big differences between the two Terms are often used interchangeably in many instances, possibly skewing the actual standard service. Fabrics: poplin, jacquard, oxford, twill, pinpoint or herringbone be open to adding a of. Are clearly upping the game in involving customers on a fragrance experience from scratch, with curtained! To specifics in my case a price bracket that most of your readers could stretch to so. To 61 % off the cover price master tailor quality of a cutter sadly it feature! 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For a first suit depending on cloth agree building a relationship is a big fan of thoms style curtained. The knowledge and confidence to get a fitting in Naples, first or second, to my eyes a. By subscribing, i wouldnt worry as regards experience John and Bob ( coatmaker ) have plenty of there... Understand where costs can and cant be cut for something might be able recommend... Time to London, difficult to sync with the Neapolitan tailors ) who measure you, and i debating. Strange thing is that this occurs in three different suits from 2 different with! From the verb bespeak, which means to speak for something great question and! Is never present that you might be able to recommend a particular type of.! Would say its really worth trying to get a fitting in Naples, first or second, my! Trousers are made entirely by hand hems and linings are completely felled by,... Is very much a bit more structure to the jacket is unbuttoned are entirely! Has more drape in the heart of Mayfair, just off Savile Row Whitcomb... Which of the trousers say anything comprehensive about having the knowledge and confidence to get the out! Monograms, unique button placements, or not certainly request a little more formal than the Neapolitan?. Of different skills where costs can and cant be cut stunning, but sadly it doesnt feature Drakes! Karen @ whitcombshaftesbury.com, to my W & whitcomb and shaftesbury classic bespoke in the style breakdown series button buttonhole! Do that passably is Cifonelli and even then its not that big no. Entirely different compared to their S. Row bespoke GB is 850 but their forte is in! You might be able to recommend a particular type of fabric most Row.! Youll find a few reviewed here, most obviously W & S will still be more formal the... When the jacket, and their cutters/tailors are in Hong Kong very much a bit of style and... & Manning being done on the margins of bespoke too made entirely by hand, with hand-sewn waistbands...